John S's Journal
Home Page: John S
Eugene, OR, USA
| Total Posts: 182 | Latest Post: 2026-03-25 |
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I ran a drill in reverse and confirmed that the cable through the speedometer could be ruled out because it operated just fine which leaves the gearbox end of the equation. I was able to confirm that the end of the driven gear was turning when I rotated the prop shaft but noticed that I had to push it inwards a bit before it engaged. This led me to think that I just needed to ensure the cable was inserted fully and snugged up and that I could run the car a bit on the stands and all would be well. Nope. Fail. Advised to pull the driven gear to inspect which revealed no damage so then was advised to inspect the drive gear and also the flange nut torque. If memory serves, it was torqued to spec for OD gearboxes so I moved on to checking the drive gear with my borescope. Again, no damage to the drive gear which leaves the flange nut. No problem, I’ll drop the prop shaft and check the torque. Not a 10 minute job for me like it might be for some but not too bad for an old fart laying on his back and stopping now and again to get some feeling back in his arms. 20 minutes later the prop shaft is disconnected and up and out of the way. Located a suitable socket for the flange nut, grabbed my torque wrench and crawled back under the car to discover that the overall length of the torque wrench doesn’t work so well when the car is only elevated on jackstands. Why did a buy such a large torque wrench?
The new torque wrench showed up last evening. Wasn’t motivated to crawl under the car until this morning. Wedged a screwdriver in between two flange bolts and checked the torque. No smoking gun so I’m out of things to try. I got the car back down on the ground, put the tools away, cleaned up and went for a drive. Speedometer? I don’t need no stinking speedometer. I’ll keep using my iPhone GPS app I guess.
It’s a good thing I’m retired and this is just a hobby.
Today I took the alternator down to the local O’Reilly’s and they tested it for free once they could find a cross reference that they could use as there are no visible part numbers on the alternator. Fortunately, it passed with flying colors and although the original 16ACR alternator is still working, I now have an upgraded 105 amp alternator ready to go.
Other things on my short list are to go through the rear Armstrongs like I did when I rebuilt the front suspension. Remove and clean them up, drain all the old fluid and add some new fluid. The rebound straps are trashed and I’ve got some new ones from The Strapping Lad to go on.
The front valance is still waiting for me to finish up. It’s been hammered and dollied and rattle can primered but has been awaiting some warmer weather for me to skim it with some filler and hit it with some paint. The front bumper had some love taps applied with a wood block and a rubber mallet so a quick clean up of the brackets and it will be good enough for me. Not perfect but the paint is past the born on date so the bumper will fit right in with the decades old paint work. Another item on the list is to figure out why the speedometer quit working late in last years driving season. The good news about my list is that I can drive the car without doing any of these jobs.
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I took advantage of a warm dry to tackle one such item the other day and started on another related project. The first was a simple one. I misplaced the ring-terminal leads to my Battery Tender and had to get a replacement so when that showed up after the holidays, I worked myself into the back of the GT to permanently attach the terminals to the battery posts and snake the end out under the rear seat where I can easily plug in the maintainer/charger when needed. Simple job but nice to have done . No more removing everything just to hook up the charger, especially when the car cover is on. Related to this project is the modification of the battery compartment cover. I have a spare left over from my parted out wreck and have had plans to slice it up to allow easier access to the driver side battery box bin that I purchased from the BST forum. I got started on that the other day as well and it needs a little more work. The plan was to make it hinged like the ones that are commercially available and so far, I think it’s going to work. I got out my Dremel clone and sliced it across the back of the cover, allowing for room to mount a piano hinge.
Ideally, it would be welded but since I don’t weld, I drilled and riveted the hinge in several places which I think will work just fine once I trim the ends. All that is left to do is that and then a test fit to see if all the fasteners still line up and if they do, then I need to determine where to slice it so that I can open either side individually. A lick of paint after that assuming it all goes well and Bob’s your uncle as they say.
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I figure I got about 2 gallons out of the tank so it’s all ready for the new sender and some non-ethanol fuel when I get the chance to go get some.
The new sender seemed like it was all over the map when I measured it with my meter so I had to tweak the stops to get it to read right. I haven’t pulled the other one yet but it wasn’t that old so it will be interesting to see why it wasn’t reading right but that will have to wait for another day as I ran out of time.
I haven’t done much with the car recently as the weather has turned. I don’t anticipate much driving as there is too much else going on this time of the year and dry days are a rarity here during the Winter. Once the tank sender is in and the fresh gas, I’ll take it out on short hops when I can but the car cover will be going on soon to keep the garage dust off of it.
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Yesterday seemed like a good time to take the old girl out for a spin as the chores were done and I needed a dose of MGB fun. I wasn’t sure my battery was up for the task as it’s been below freezing for a few days but it fired up after a bit of coaxing. My fuel gauge hasn’t been accurate since I got the car on the road and I have a new one to install but I need to get the level down before I take out the old one. Ideally, I’d like to get it down low enough to pull the plug and catch the contents into a drain pan for a couple of reasons. I know I can change the sender with some gas still in the tank by raising up the passenger side but I want to make sure I drain any residual impurities from the tank that may be lurking before I put the car to bed for the rain/cold season as I won’t be driving the car regularly for awhile. My plan is to put about 5 gallons of clear gas in the car once the new sender is in.
I discovered that my speedometer/odometer weren’t working on my drive yesterday which is probably due to my messing around with my gauge lights the last time I did anything with the car. How so? Well, the LED’s that I installed in the Spring quit working due to a ground issue and when I fixed that, I must have pushed the speedometer light in too far which has fouled the speedo needle. Good news/bad news kinda thing. The lights work but the speedo doesn’t. It’s a bit of a Catch-22 when you are trying to discern how much fuel you are using based on your mileage when your odometer isn’t functioning…
So now I have a couple things to attend to when the weather and the mood strikes me. I’ll start by slowly draining the fuel into a catch pan until I know it’s empty. I can only hope it’s just a few gallons…
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