Ken G's Journal

I feel like I'm closing in on something, what it is I'm not sure of yet.
This weekend I spent a lot of time cleaning up lingering issues:
Installed the Clutch Slave and hose
Springs on the clutch and brake peddle
Wired up the coil and distributor, (lots of questions but all sorted out)
Installed most of the carb hoses
Cleaned up the unused wiring

So items left to do:
Install new fuel tank (when it arrives)
Install new fuel pump
Install radiator (I have an issue with the fan and the hoses I need to sort out)
Install new Exhaust
Connect and fill the master cylinder for the clutch and brakes

Then we are at doing a compression test and work towards starting it up.

I went off for an extended vacation and forgot to do a journal update before I left., but I busy and got a lot accomplished just before leaving.

Install new fuel tank - Done
Install new fuel pump - Done
Install radiator - Done
Install new Exhaust - Done
Connect and fill the master cylinder for the clutch and brakes - Done

Since I got back I've been working on testing the electrical system. I used two 6 volt lantern batteries to do some testing on lights and connections, they were mostly good but I found a few issues I needed to correct.

Which leads up to today, I installed a battery and did some more testing. Most systems seems to work, headlights, running lights, hazard lights went on (but I have a few bad bulbs and bad flasher unit)

But the big news is that I was able to complete a compression test on the engine, it turned over nicely and the test was ok for now:
A few days ago I but some MMO down the cylinders and I'm not sure if that helped or may have changed the results but this is what I got.
I did the test twice,
Cylinder #1 - 152 - 112
Cylinder #2 - 148 - 125
Cylinder #3 - 135 - 145
Cylinder #4 - 135 - 140

I don't know about that cylinder #1 seems like a huge change between the first run and the second. Would putting MMO make such a big difference(i.e. it is in for the first test but by the time I do the 2nd test it is all removed?) that would sort of make sense for both #1 and #2 went down.

Anyways It isn't enough to stop me now, next step start up.

So one step forward few steps back.
I put gas in the MGB and tried to get it started and not much luck, yet.
I fuel pump pushed the gas up to the filter, and into the Carb.
I tried to start it and it turned over but there was no ignition.
I pulled the plugs that were a bit oily and changed them to another set I had, verifying the gap at .025.
Tried again no success, and after a few tries the car just stopped trying to start. nothing... nada... dead.
Checked and there were no blown fuses, headlights still bright and battery checked out at 12.3.. ugh now what.

I bypassed the start solenoid with my remote start switch from the main power to the plug for the white and brown wire, there is a faint click.
I'm guessing that the starter is jammed or the solenoid is bad. Either way it was working and in course of my attempting to get it started I messed it up.
More research needed.

I pulled the starter last night, easy job, maybe 15 minutes which was nice.
I put it on the becnh and tested it per John Twists video.
First few times I heard a slight clicking noice but the arm didn't move.
I banged it with a hammer a couple of times on the solenoid and tried it again and it freed up.
Ran it on and off on the bench and 3 out of 4 times it worked, bt the other 25% of the time it got stuck.

I looked at taking it apart and trying to clean it up or maybe replace the solenoid but I don't think it is worth the effort at this point of time.

Aftermarket replacement starters are $125 and the hi torque ones are $250. While I am getting tired of pouring more money into this car I feel like the hi torque starter might be the way to go.

I just want to get the thing running

I worked through the problem with the new hi-torque starter. I ran a new wire from the fuse box to the positive side of the coil. I disconnected the W/LG wire from the coil and the starter. And changed the coil to a 3 Ohm from the 1.5.

I was still not getting it to engage, so I reset the timing, cleaned the plugs, ran some pressured air through the metal fuel line, changed the fuel filter and ran some cleaner into the carb.

It than started like a champ!!! Very happy and I was starting to doubt myself and all of the components.

But now I have a new problem, the car is racing to a 5000 rpm idle. The throttle cable is not engaged, and I have backed out the Idle/ Mixture screw all the way. it sounds pretty good at 5000 rpm but I don't want it to run there too long so I have to sort this out. I started to do some research but didn't find this problem, yet .. I threw it to the forum hopefully I'll get some advice.

Anyway quite happy at the progress, having it run is a great relief.

Quick edit I received the car on Sept 1st 2021 so it took me a year and 2 days to get it running, a bit longer than planned but here we are.

Based on some direction from the forum I was able to narrow the issue to the throttle linkage. I reset that and upon restart it holds a steady 1500 rpm. I adjusted the return stop and was able to get it to 1300. Still high but workable for now.

I have some other issues I need to sort through, I turned on the hazard lights and got the front right turn light on, the back left turn and reverse light and the right brake light. Clearly a bit of work to do there. The turn indicator lights came on with the hazard switch so that is good.

The red alternator light came on but it seems that the alternator is putting out juice.

The Tach and the oil pressure gauges were working but the fuel and temp were not reading anything. There may not be enough gas in the tank and I might have not let the car run long enough to get a reading for the temp.

One other thing I noticed is that there is some exhaust coming out of the joint between the exhaust manifold and the tail pipe so that might need a tighten up.

Overall I don't think it is too bad.